The Vietnamese currency is the Dong. While rates fluctuate daily, in general, 23,500 dong = $1 USD. To make it easier, I simply round up and “think” 25,000 dong: $1 USD. So, when I go to markets, such as I did on Saturday at the Dong Xuan Market, vendors will frequently note the amount owed on a calculator, as most English speakers will not understand the amount due if verbalized. I make it a point to bring a small calculator and I will present it to the vendor. I’ved had more than one vendor share with others standing by (I am assuming.) that they were surprised? Impressed? that an international knew to bring a calculator to market.
Well, Saturday, the calculator didn’t help much. Why? Because sometimes vendors will truncate the number and just type in “600”, when they mean 600,000 dong. Biiig difference. I had two such experiences on Saturday, both a bit embarassing but as with all international experiences, you figure out what worked/ didn’t work and move along.
I will write more about the market experience later, but I fell in love with a piece of material that had strong geometric shapes to it. Of course the bolt of fabric was located halfway down a stack, but the vendor was excited for an early morning sale. I had a “conversation” with her and her friend re: how much to purchase. I mimed that I wanted a tunic type top, and we collectively decided 1.7 meters which is about 1.9 yards. I pulled out my trusty calculator and she typed in a number. Now, she had already cut the cloth, so I was comitted. I THOUGHT she typed 1,500,000 dong or $60. Geesh. Glad I liked the pattern as that was pricey but I pulled out three 500,000 notes and she looked at me horrified. Shaking her head, she pushed my hand with the money away and pulled my wallet to her (Okay, where is this going?). She rifled through and pulled out 150,000 dong or about $6! She must have thought that I was an idiot. Embarassed, I thanked her and went on my way. Don’t you wonder the conversation between her and her friend after I left? “Those crazy Americans! No sense at all.”
Later, as I was exploring the streets and stalls surrounding this amazing market area, I did a quick double take. There was a stunning piece of material hanging amid other pre-cut pieces in front of a fabric store. Now, neither the vendor (the wife) nor her husband looked particularly excited about a customer. I thought they were going to wave me off. The material was a remnant but I feel pretty confident that I can get a sleeveless top made from it. I pulled out my trusty calculator and she typed in 7,500. Geesh, not even $1? I felt that I was missing something here but I pulled out 7,500 dong and she looked at me like I was a complete idiot. Of course, I was feeling like one but I needed a bit more information here! She then typed into my calculator 175,000 (Where was the “1” before?). Now this particular vendor was a bit of a grump and while I really, really liked the material, I will admit to feeling somewhat put out. Afterall, I was smiling and trying to make a purchase.
I did not intend to negotiate, but that changed. FYI: negotiating is the norm and I never negotiate for less than 75% of the original price as I do not think that is fair to the vendor. So, I offered her 150,000 dong. Fortunately, she accepted the 150,000 dong and I’ve got the material! (Material on the right in the picture.)
Throughout my time here, I’ve done pretty well with the currency, but on this day, these two exchanges? Not so much. I did feel better when my husband, who arrived on Sunday, got “had” by a very sharp elderly lady at the Temple of Literature. Two older ladies were on us like flies trying to sell us a fan. I kept saying “No” but Lee made the fatal error of stopping. He said, she was talking quickly and stating amounts so fast (think shell game), he got confused and he wound up paying $15 for 2 fans! Really? Flashback to our last visit in Vietnam in 2014, when Lee wound up paying 125,000 dong for a turtle that he was to kiss and release in a reflection pond at the temple. 1. Lee thought he was paying 125 dong (no such currency) and 2. He didn’t realize that women rent the turtle and use it to make a wish for improved fertility. I fully admit to laughing pretty hard over that one.
Then last Friday, as Lee and I were waiting for the bus, an elderly Vietnamese lady came up to him with a stack of hats to sell him one. He stopped to listen to her to be polite. I cherish my husband's virtues and galantry but it makes him such a mark. :-) Anyway, she wanted 500,000 dong ($20.50) for a hat of limited quality. She accepted 300,000. The hat has kept the sun off of Lee's head and for that I am grateful.
Pictures: Lee and the Hat Lady. Lee walking to the temple entrance with the Fan Lady working on a sale.
I truly understand that life is not easy for many here in Hanoi and I appreciate their diligence and I admire their persistance. Now, what to do with the two fans. At the end of the day, I could only laugh about the fans. It was like turtle 2.0.
Postcards from Hanoi Summer '23,
Karen
Comments